Back in the Fall, the same weekend that ND hit rock bottom with a loss to Tulsa (a weekend I picked because I thought it was a guaranteed and boring win), I was lucky enough to travel to Oxford, MS to tailgate at the Ole Miss-Auburn game in the legendary Grove on the Ole Miss campus. While all you Loyal Readers were in misery, I was in drunken tailgate heaven without a care in the world. (Sorry.)
A buddy of mine and I had talked about how we’d wanted to check out SEC football for a while, and when we did some research it became very obvious that the best tailgating in all of the South is at Ole Miss. So, the mission quickly changed – from ‘seeing SEC football’ to ‘seeing SEC tailgating’. And so we booked the tickets, bought the game tix, made some t-shirts that said something like ‘we flew from California just to tailgate with you’ and stretched our kidneys. It was on.
We flew into Memphis and headed down the morning of the game. We got down there early with 3 cases of beer and a fifth for 4 guys. It would prove to be almost enough.
Oxford is, literally, small town South. And it’s also awesome. It’s just a few streets of a downtown surrounded by some older, quaint homes. I freaking loved it immediately. We hit their version of the bookstore, a small shop on a corner in downtown, and picked up some Ole Miss gear. (It’s not traitorous if the team you buy never, ever plays ND, and never, ever threatens the Top 10), and walked around the main square, which took about 5 minutes.
One thing that was surprising was how quiet it was at 9am. Nothing was really open, and there were very few people around. That said, we were in town. The Grove awaited.
We hit the only open bar in town, where we quickly scored a free double-shot of tequila for flying out just to tailgate there for no reason. That was brutal at 9am, but pretty much par for the course for the weekend. And heck, I’ll take it. Who could refuse?
After a few get-ready beers, we grabbed breakfast and headed toward The Grove. While we were only a short drive away, the roads were now crammed. We crawled. 1 mph. Maybe 2. But up ahead we saw a ton of trees. ..The Grove, and all its majestic glory. Promises of a day in the sun, drinking cold, cold beer. Tailgate Heaven.
We unloaded, carrying the coolers. The odd thing was that the beer we were carrying was illegal. Not because it was alcohol, but because beer is not allowed in The Grove. Whiskey? No problem. Any other kind of liquor? All good. But no beer. This was maddening to a beer drinker like me, but we read that if we kept it in cups, didn’t fill them up in clear view of any cops, and kept the cooler locked we’d be okay. The only issue was that our cooler was freaking Styrofoam from a local Wal*Mart. So I cut some holes and made a locking mechanism out of twine. Not like it was going to stop anyone that wanted in, but apparently that would be good enough for the po-po.
Another oddity? All the beer in town was sold warm. No cold beer. I heard that this was because a previous Mayor (or some other local governmental guy) had owned all the ice in town and wanted to increase demand back in the day, and the laws just stuck. Huh. Politics at its best.
Looking out at The Grove, the entire space was filled. Literally every square foot under these hundreds of trees was covered with tented tailgates. We needed a home, and we had no idea where we’d set up camp. So, we walked. It took a whole 2 minutes before we found a home with a solid group of undergrads from Ole Miss. (that’s them in the video up above) They immediately welcomed us with classic Southern Hospitality, mixed in with a little bit of amazement about our mission: to fly across country to drink with them. Their set up was minimalist. Tent. Table. A huge bottle of whiskey and some cups. A few chairs. A Confederate Flag. But hey, we had a home base and some great local kids to show us around. Score.
The Grove is absurdly awesome. It stretches as far as you can see, and it’s just tent after tent after tent sitting in the shelter of an amazing grove of trees. Apparently, there’s a mad rush the night before where people sprint in to set up their spots. I heard about companies that make $25K a weekend just to reserve and set up these tents. Madness. And the tents aren’t typical tailgate tents. They become customized, catered, outdoor living rooms. White table cloths. Whiskey. Full buffets. Whiskey. Multiple flat-screen TVs with couches and surround sound. Whiskey. Chandeliers! And…Whiskey. It was ridiculous.
It became very obvious very quickly that people at Ole Miss absolutely love the event. I’m not sure that the football is really the focus. Actually, I am sure it’s not. What’s most important is getting together, having a great time, and bonding with fellow fans/family/random dudes from California. And oh did we bond.
One of the great traditions in The Grove is a Whiskey Walk. And that’s where you…wait for it…go for a walk around with Whiskey in hand. We did a beer walk instead, but whatever – close enough. The hospitality was amazing – we were offered food or drink every few minutes. Shots. Chicken wings. Sandwiches. You name it, random people welcomed us and offered it. We funneled a couple beers with some Auburn fans and a gorilla. We headed down the Walk of Champions, which is essentially the team’s route to the stadium. And we saw girl after girl after girl in sundresses. And man oh man, the girls! Un-freaking-believable! I have never seen such a collection of southern beauties (I realize that I sound like a sceevy old dude, but if that shoe fits…), and the sundresses were out in full force. I love sundresses. If I ever have a son, he will be spending at least one semester at Ole Miss simply for this reason. World, this is a promise.
Another highlight was the Hotty Toddy Potty. These portable bathrooms put ND’s sad, sad rows of port-a-johns to shame. These were fully functioning, portable bathrooms: 6 urinals, 3 stalls, 2 sinks. All beautifully maintained and branded with the Ole Miss saying of “Hotty Toddyâ€. Hotty Toddy doesn’t really mean anything – it’s just a friendly greeting. And well, these pissers welcomed me with open arms, and I am writing someone important to urge them to get these to ND. They were sweet, and we can call them whatever works: Onward to Victory Potty. Shake Down the Crapper. Something like that. We need them!
We had about 6 hours at The Grove, and it simply wasn’t enough. The game started, and we reluctantly headed toward the stadium. WHEN HAVE I EVER BEEN LESS EXCITED TO GET IN A GAME? A GAME I WAS ACTUALLY INTERESTED IN SEEING? Never. We took our time, chatted up some sweet southern women who offered us food and fun conversation. We missed the flyover, kickoff, and part of the first quarter. We didn’t really care.
The game was okay. It’s a decent stadium, and Ole Miss hung in there for a bit. It felt more like an NFL game than an ND game does: big jumbotron, cheesy contests, that kind of thing. The fans cheered, and I know they all wanted Ole Miss to play well, but it was clear that the general idea is this: football is great and all, but the party is the focus. We left with 5 minutes remaining. Why? I’m not really sure. I can’t really put it better than what I heard down there from several fans, including our hosts:
“Win or lose, we still boozeâ€.
“Ole Miss may lose the game, but we’ve never lost a partyâ€
Too true, too true.
Amazingly, everyone leaves all their stuff out in The Grove during the game. All that food and booze, all those electronics, just left out there. Southern etiquette must dictate that stealing someone’s tailgate stuff is not allowed. Or maybe there’s a police force I didn’t see. Sadly, though, my homemade cooler must not have been covered in the etiquette, as it was stolen during the game, with all 6 remaining beers in it. I was bummed, but we were quickly invited to another tailgate with loads of chicken fingers and plenty of, you guessed it, Whiskey. We were saved.
Parties continued in The Grove late into the evening – several tents turned into outdoor clubs, with full, all-out DJ sound and lighting systems, and packed dance floors. After a drink at one of these, we headed to a piano bar back in downtown Oxford, and continued the party. Auburn fans mingled with Ole Miss fans, dancing and singing classic tunes from the 80’s and 90’s, along with southern classics. No animosity in the joint, just a group of folks from the South enjoying a night of dancing, singing and drink. I guess when you don’t care TOO much about winning or losing, you just become friends with everybody like the Ole Miss fans. That was kind of sweet. The South Will Rise Again was yelled by everyone as Dixie was wrapped up. We barely made it past midnight.
Ole Miss doesn’t even come close to approaching Notre Dame in terms of mystique or tradition or the actual football. But in terms of tailgating, Ole Miss holds the crown. I’ve been to ND, Penn State, Pitt, Stanford, USC, Michigan (sucks), Michigan State, Purdue, Northwestern, Arizona State, and a number of other schools, and none of them hold a candle to The Grove in terms of pure tailgating. The amount of love and passion and support that ND fans pour into ND football is equivalent to how much Ole Miss fans pour into tailgating, and it shows.
Ole Miss now has a place in my heart. Not for the team really, as that would make rooting for ND seem easy given the Rebs’ consistent struggles, but for the people and the experience. The folks down there were as nice as people can possibly be, and they sure as hell knew how to throw a party. I’ll be back to The Grove, no doubt. After all, it’s Tailgate Heaven.
Don't take me, yourself, or life so seriously. This is supposed to be fun.
Biscuit co-founded HerLoyalSons in partnership with his ND roommate (Dillon Hall baby!), MQ, in 2006 and has been ranting about ND Football and everything Notre Dame since. He strongly believes in the mission of ND and its football program. Biscuit expects logic and data in arguments and will absolutely crush you if you come to a debate missing one or the other. He despises everything Michigan, and his favorite pastime is mocking Purdue.
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- No Respect! - December 14, 2018
Warm-beer laws are common in the South. We have enough blue laws to keep a sizable liquor-law industry running.
“Hotty Toddy” is part nonsense phrase, but it’s also part riff on the name of a drink (“hot toddy”), made with . . . you’ll never guess . . . whiskey.
Warm beer laws, and yes, Bourbon County here in Kentucky is a dry county. Go figure.
Your cooler wasn’t stolen, it was confiscated by the police you couldn’t see for being a) weak-sauce beer, and b) not an approved lockable cooler. Not only do they protect the tailgaters’ flat screens and food during the game, they protect the integrity of the drinking. 🙂
It’s hard to imagine that hard liquor would be allowed but not beer. I guess fewer cans and bottles strewn about?
Excellent write up. Not my kind of scene, but fun to live vicariously through you guys.
After watching the end of your video, perhaps the “no beer” law also forces people to buy those red party cups to hold their whiskey & coke. Maybe the ice-baron mayor had a cousin who owned dixie cups.
Holy crap, I just became an Ole Miss fan, to some extent. Yes, the people you describe are the same across the south and the SEC, with the exception of UK, which has the worst fans this side of Columbus or Ann Arbor.
But the overall scene sounds amazing. I can’t imagine the ND football team walking to the stadium through the Moon Tower lot (for those old enough to remember that bastion of drinking games).
I propose an annual HLS trip to the Grove. I just have to find a few thousand dollars to buy my wife a diamond necklace so I can get permission to go with just a moderate guilt trip.
as a UofL season ticket holder, I agree, UK fans are horrible. My county, Henry, is also dry. Annoying at best.
Oh, the irony of a UL fan criticizing UK fans.
At UK the worst you’ll get is some all-in-good-fun shit talk. If you’re very unlucky, a too-drunk redneck might try to start a fight, but that’s extremely rare.
At UL, any UK fan should reasonably expect their car to get keyed and their wife/girlfriend to be the recipient of inappropriate and vulgar insults.
But why should I make this argument? Do google searches of each fanbase. Look at the images, read the stories. It won’t take you long to confirm this.
God Bless southern women, god bless Ole’ Miss, and God Bless you for writing this.
I would kill to party at Ole Miss. I have some friends that have been there more than once, and it is quite a scene. It was explained to me like this:
Pretty girls, pretty girls, sundresses, and more pretty girls.
Thanks for reminding me about Tulsa week. I really appreciate that
Great write up Biscuit. I absolutely love it. I have wanted to get down there for no good reason for a long, long time (a couple places actually…Ole Miss, LSU, Georgia are tops on my list of things I want to see).
And the red plastic cup thing is pretty much ubiquitous in the South. Most bars in the South will give you a ‘walker’ at the bar to put your drink in, so you can take it with you when you stumble over to the next bar. That combined with all the whiskey makes me miss my homeland in Dixie.
You are also right about Southern girls. That is why I married one in prompt fashion.
Though I must confess, I feel that good ol’ corn-fed Midwestern girls are highly under-rated. A brief stop at Indiana University, Iowa, Wisconsin, or Missouri has as much ‘talent’ as anywhere.
They just trade out the sundresses for…parkas and shit.
Ah, yes, in praise of good ole corn fed midwestern girls. Warmth in the winter, shade in the summer.
I was sent this video by a friend who reads this blog and spotted me at 1:32 walking in the bottom left of the screen, and I feel compelled to say that the depiction of Ole Miss tailgating is true.
I’m from Upstate New York and kept hearing from my boyfriend (Ole Miss alum) that no place beats tailgating in the Grove, I had my doubts but its definitely true. Weather is perfect, good drinks good food, people are always well dressed (although wearing dresses to games is still a bit foreign to me as I would never dare wear a dress to game at the end of October in Buffalo for fear of frostbite, but I can appreciate it).
If you’ve never been to an Ole Miss game you are missing out, and just seeing Oxford is well worth the trip.
Ha, that’s awesome. Your friend has eagle eyes!
I have Louisville football season tix, a fandom of convienience since I can’t go to every Irish game. Our tailgating may not rival the grove, especially the bathrooms, but card fans are notorious for not getting into the stadium in time for kickoff due to tailgating. If you guys ever want to come out for a game, let me know. Did I mention alcohol is sold in the stadium?
Ha. Must be a regional thing. At least those fans eventually go to the game. I went to Indiana. Great tailgates if only for the sole reason that they go all day cause nobody really goes to the games.
It’s not tailgating that keeps them out, it’s apathy. There was no such thing as a UL football fan until Petrino turned the program around, and they scattered like roaches when Kragthorpe tanked the program. (See how many fans are in the stadium by the end of the 3rd quarter if your losing, or check attendance figures in bad seasons). But y’all have a good coach and things will probably be good now.
Let’s hear it for Oxford! I rolled in there a couple of years ago, not knowing what to expect, and fell in love with the place. School wasn’t in session when I was there, so maybe when there’s masses of students also in town there’s a different vibe, but it felt like a throwback place, in a good way.
Know the bookstore you’re talking about, probably was in the bar where you got your shots, know the old, quaint homes. If anyone else is following in your footsteps, I’d recommend a breakfast place called “BBB”. Just great.
Sounds like a blast. That is a trip I have recommending to my two brothers in law for some time.
Have to say, though, that the sight of all of the Confederate battle flags is a bit jarring. And I am not even a liberal!
Agreed on that point. But my impression that it was more about southern pride than any loyalty to a failed separatist state, or its ideals. Just my impression though, not 100% sure. And I wasn’t going to ask!
I was born in the South and have spent a good deal of time there, and your spot on. I think for people in the South, very few look to that flag and see it as a true representation of the Confederacy, or slavery, or anything like that. People look at it and think “the South” and thats about it.
I’m sure many find it to be quite offensive.
tlndma,
I have no doubt. I’m not justifying it or saying no one cares. I’m just saying to the vast majority of people down in the deep south, it just isn’t that big of deal one way or another.
Makes sense. Wonder how the African American players who walk through the Grove view it. Obviously, not offensive enough to make them want to play elsewhere.
Just wondering since my #2 daughter is trying to decide on college for next fall between ND and UVA. Can’t go wrong with either.
Ah, yeah you can, by not picking ND!
UVA is a great school. That particular area of Virginia is quite interesting, because it is definitely southern (or souther-in as said there) yet still remarkably different than down in the heart of Dixie in areas like Mississippi, Alabama, Georgia, South Carolina.
I have nevern been to a UVA tailgate but I have heard they are quite the classy affair, with folks really dressing up to get down.
What version of “Dixie” did ya’ll use for the video? As in, who’s the band?
Hey Grif,
I can’t quite remember – I’ll have to look back at iTunes, I’ll report back.
“We may not win every game … but we ain’t never lost a party.” Love it.
It can’t be “Tailgate Heaven” if beer is illegal! And screw pouring my quality Microbrew bottle of beer into a dixi cup. And I don’t drink “Crap Lite.” My only saving grace (if I ended up at Ole Miss) is I usually drink dark beer, so maybe they’d (cops) think it is just Coke and Jack or something.
Agreed. Any party without good beer isnt a party at all. Texas Stadium had some badass tailgates. Havent been to Arlington yet, but I’m sure it’s the same.
Quality microbrews at a college football tailgate?
You’re doing it wrong.
Just wondering, how was the talent at the piano bar you mentioned? 😉
They were awesome. One of our boys/guides down there was one of the performers and he was money, as was his partner. The bar was a madhouse. Great times.
Biscuit…it had been a while and I actually forgot about your trip…very nice and thank you for the write up…sounds awesome and well worth it…did they drink Whiskey down there?
I’m in no way besmirching the Grove our any Southern tailgate but I fail to see anything that makes this tailgate stand out.
Other than the HORDES or sun tents (which I do like) I dont see how this is any different from any tailgate at most any school other than ND.
ND tailgates are fun, but I admit, its a family event. Its not the madness you find at say, Ohio State, Bama, Wisc, or another large state school. Fact is, ND has a LOT of older fans, this is largely due to the fact there is a small student base so obviously less younger fans. ND tailgates stay classy (but admittedly…mostly low key)
Now, I never drink beer at a tailgate. I rarely drink beer at all because, yes, its a girl drink. Waste of time, and waste of space in my stomach. I’ll have a beer with a meal, thats about it. Then…bring on the liquor.
But finally, as for the ladies, I also love southern girls but thats more because of the sun dresses. There are no more beautiful girls in South than in the Midwest, they just get to dress in less clothes for more months of years. And I’d put the Girls of Big 10 against ANY other division.
Sorry Southerners, you may have the best football teams, but there is nothing thats SCREAMS college football to me more than COLD WEATHER TAILGATING. There is a reason Southern schools never travel out of the SEC…they’re pussies for cold weather.
Dont bring that weak warm weather tailgating to me. That’s childs play.
Alabama is making a special trip up to you cold weather “man” climate this fall just to prove again why we sec schools don’t come up there. Waste of our time and yours. I hope Penn State has a white out that game because one flag of surrender is not going to be enough.
It is nice that Alabama is finally traveling but its also not exactly taking on a power house.
Well I suppose it is historically, but this hardly the late 80s to early 90s. Penn State, as much as they try, isn’t even the 4th best team in the big 10.
Its not gonna be much of a game I dont think.
Can we ban this guy for his obvious sacrilege?
You’re right. I was over zealous. But I’ll still take liquor every time over beer. Too me, beer is like wine. It should be drank to add to a meal. Any only the good stuff.
If you’re drinking you drink…I’m sorry. Obviously the choice is liquor.
And to prove I do in fact love beer I will add my favorite beer choice for you to render judgment:
Weltenburger Kloster Asam Bock. From I believe the second oldest brewery in the entire world. Brewed by monks. The best there is.
dont bash it til you try it for yourself.
My brother is somewhat misguided as to the beer. That’s wrong.
But he definitely makes a good point about the weather. Its one thing indeed to go out and hang around in shorts in beautiful weather and drink and watch girls in little clothing.
But getting your tailgate set up and ready to go at 6:00 am in November when its 15 degrees outside and snowing requires another level of dedication. It takes fortitude.
By this logic I should move from LA to Alaska. Ummm, no.
No, I think by that logic someone who tailgates in Alaska is just a badass.
Ha. That is likely true. But given the choice between being a frozen badass looking at snow suits or a comfortable non-badass looking at sundresses, I take the latter every time.
I grew up in the Bend but there are really not any games for tailgating. It is one of 2 states without Div. I or professional teams. About the only thing to follow would be the Anchorage Aces hockey team. I have not heard of tailgating in -20 weather here though.
So in late football season when it’s below freezing for night games in much of the SEC, snowing, and we still tailgate for 10-12 hours before the game our tailgating is weak?
Sure it may never get -15…yes as you move South it get’s warmer…but your argument “because it’s warm down there” holds little salt. We all don’t live in Gainesville.
6:00 am when it’s freezing? Hmmm. I’d love to see you setting up tailgating equipment like we do 4 days early in the freezing weather. Rushing the Grove at 10pm on a friday night, partying all through the night, all day saturday, and then going to the game. Yes, in freezing weather. Yes, even when freezing complete with TVs, white table clothes, fine china, chandeliers, full buffets, everyone dressed to the T, and plenty of beverage. Sure, some of us close in our tents and install space heaters, but we take this tailgate/party thing seriously. You may have heard? Ha.
With that being said, come down to Oxford, I’ll happily show ya myself what it’s all about. The whiskey will keep you warm. Got nothing but love for the people posting on this blog, however. New respect for ND fans.
As long as we can smuggle in some brews. Hard liquor tends to make me sick. Sounds like fun.
Hey now, Gainesville tailgating is no joke. Warm weather tailgating is for pussies? Try it in 110+ degree weather, 100% humidity, and with no breeze to save your soul? I’d say it’s definitely a challenge early season. Just my two cents. Those boys in Oxford do have it figured out tho…went up there in 2002 when Eli Manning and the Rebs beat Florida. Daggum it. Anyways, love the write up. Hope you visit UF sometime.
Now that Urban is gone, we may be able to take you up on it someday down the line…
Meant to ask: Where did you find a southern version of you?
Ha. Seriously, my boy Jordan was awesome. Randomly invited us to join them. Great minds/livers and all that…
To clarify my comments to people like Jay, I am not in any way bashing tailgating in Oxford. I mentioned at the top that I have always wanted to experience a tailgate at Oxford, LSU, Georgia. I have no doubt it is a truly unique experience.
But I have also always wanted to tailgate at Lambeau Field in December. My point is that sundresses and cocktails and everyone done up fine for nice weather and drinking is awesome…..but so is a whole community coming out in brutal, bone-chilling weather to drink Lieney’s and eat brats and half a wheel of cheese, and watch their piss freeze before it hits the ground.
No one can deny the badassitude of such exploits.
You’ll actually find a few bearded fellows running around shirtless at such an event. We Packers fans mix our badassitude with a little insanity from time to time.
Tailgating is outstanding across the SEC, aside from Vandy (can’t really blame them though), but yes The Grove is in its own echelon. I’ve seen games at UK, Tennessee, South Carolina, Georgia, Alabama, Florida….nothing tops The Grove on game day.
Hey all,
I’m the guy in the video, and I just wanted to say I’ve got not only newfound respect for you fans from “the north,” but for the class of ND fans in general. To hear just good objective talk about another institution or experience is refreshing. It is my hope one day to return the favor upon a visit to a game at ND. If any of y’all ever make it to the Grove, be sure to get a hold of me and we’ll get you the hook up. Stay classy ND and Hotty Toddy!